I typically do about two organized paddles with the WatersEdge club per year. I like the people but I tend to be a loner. But if a special trip comes along that really piques my interest, I'll join in. Last year, Marianne G. posted pictures of the brown pelican rookery she saw when the WatersEdge group paddled out at Smith Island. I'd never seen a pelican rookery and after seeing her photos, this trip was quickly added to my bucket list. So when Dr. Greg posted this event in 2024, I signed up.

I drove out to Crisfield, Maryland and met up with the group at the Crisfield City Dock where we staged our gear.
There were 14 kayaks and 14 people. This would be my first trip with the club where I paddled a kayak instead of a SUP.

After eating breakfast at the Waters Edge Cafe, we loaded our kayaks onto one power boat and our personal gear on another.

Our boat was soon underway. We passed what I'm guessing are the remains of the Somers Cove Lighthouse.
We also passed the ruins of an old fish factory.
The fish factory was built in 1880, but was closed in 1908 after a ban on harvesting menhaden.
Also known as "The Stack," the chimney is 50 feet tall.
- from Efforts Underway to Preserve Crisfield's History

After a nine mile boat ride, we landed at Tylerton, our home for the next three days. This waterman community, established in 1638, is now home to roughly 40 residents. Smith Island is actually comprised of multiple islands and Tylerton is one of them.
First, we unloaded the kayaks.
Then we carried our personal gear to either Duke's House or Pauline's House. I stayed in the latter along with about half our group.

Next, we headed to the only place to purchase supplies, Drum Point Market. Here, we stocked up on food and ordered our dinner. Some folks were a little disappointed that they don't sell alcohol.
I noticed how the natives spoke with a distinctive accent.
A notable feature of the island is the local dialect which is like the dialects of the West Country of England and the dialect of Cornwall. The dialect contains some relict features indicative of its origins. This dialect is like the Ocracoke Brogue, sometimes referred to as the Outer Banks Brogue.
- from Kiddle - Tylerton, Maryland facts for kids

After getting settled in, it was time to hit the water.

We launched from the Tylerton boat ramp.
Then we commenced paddling west to Rhodes Point. See cover photo.

There were numerous structures with some in great need of repair. I suspect the declining population on the island might have something to do with this.
Dr. Greg saw a fellow he knew and proceeded to chat up a conversation with him. This local raised a whole bunch of money via GoFundMe to get his building fixed up.
I saw several oystercatchers. They were not the most cooperative photo models.
Around mile 2.5, we came to a brown pelican rookery just west of Shanks Gut. On a stretch of beach, we saw hundreds of pelicans, along with several other birds.

Here's three pelicans. There's one in the back sitting down with its wing outstretched.
In breeding plumage, the back and sides of the neck turn a rich, dark reddish-brown.
- from All About Birds - Brown Pelican

Here's Nurse Caty kayaking alongside the rookery.
Immatures are gray-brown above (including the head and neck) with pale whitish belly and breast.
- from All About Birds - Brown Pelican

Here's Bob and Lisa paddling by the rookery.
The pelicans are very successful here, partly due to climate change.
The arrival of nesting East Coast brown pelicans on the Chesapeake Bay, the northernmost point in their spring migration, is an uplifting chapter in the often bleak tale of climate change and declining wildlife diversity. Though pelicans - and their deep throat pouches - have existed for at least 30 million years, they do not appear in the Eastern Shore's historical records. Neither the region's Native Americans nor English explorer John Smith, who mapped out the waterway in 1608, mention the prehistoric-looking bird.
"It's a recent thing," said Jim Rapp, an avid birder and conservationist who leads pelican tours on Smith Island with Delmarva Birding Weekends. "In 20 years, this place could look like Florida, bird-wise."
- from The Washington Post - Pelicans' paradise on Smith Island, Maryland

If you look closely in the snapshot below, you can see some nests.
They nest in colonies, often on isolated islands free of land predators.
- from All About Birds - Brown Pelican


After visiting the brown pelican rookery, we pulled ashore for a rest. In the background of the pic below is the town of Ewell on Smith Island.
There were lots of fiddler crabs on the beach. I snapped this photo just before he scurried into his hole.
Back on the water, we paddled past Ewell. Here's Virginia with the Ewell Methodist Church behind.
Paddling south, I saw a lot of birds.

Behind some crab pots, I spotted this gentle face. I asked a few birders and they told me it is a juvenile black-crowned night heron.
This is the first yellow-crowned night heron I've ever seen in Maryland. I've been looking for one for a long time.
Another first for me was seeing this juvenile tricolored heron. During our stay, I saw a few of them but this was the only one that would pose for me.
I paddled 7.1 miles that day.

That night, some of us went to one of the piers to view the sunset.
I supported the local wildlife by unintentionally feeding the biting insects with my blood. At Drum Point Market, they sell Cactus Juice Outdoor Protectant. I plan to try this out. If it is what the locals use, then it must work. One of the kayakers in our group purchased it and confirmed this.

The next morning, I went on a bit of a walkabout through town. Some people had mentioned seeing a very tame white rabbit and I finally got to meet it. Jessica was able to feed it right out of her hand. There are no foxes or raccoons on Tylerton so the bunny was pretty safe.
I passed the town mural.
Out by the water, I scanned the area for birds. I spotted this spread eagle cormorant airing out its armpits.
One resident had this giant coral in their front yard. It was about as big as a volleyball; quite the distinctive landmark.
I had a quick breakfast consisting of salami and cheese on a tortilla. That was my main meal for the trip. That it how I ate when I was backpacking. The food was dense in calories and if I was only out for a few days, then refrigeration was not needed. I also didn't need to cook anything. Others in Pauline's House were quite the connoisseurs. Helena made fresh spring rolls while Christos made shrimp pasta. They were more than willing to share. Since I had nothing to share, I helped out with cleanup.

Back at the Tylerton ramp, I found a dead eel in the water.
Yesterday, it took me a long time to get my spray skirt on the boat but today I was getting the hang of it. With today's windy conditions, it was a good thing to have.

The wind was a little challenging for some. One of the newer paddlers got pushed into the marsh and had to get towed out. But once she was out, she was fine.

Dark skies made for less than ideal photography.

We paddled south and crossed the state line into Virginia, stopping at a sandy beach. Looking at the below pic, it is easy to spot our fearless leader's boat. It is the one with the Jolly Roger flag.
Shown below is Bob, ready for the next leg of our journey. Behind him in the distance is a telephone line that runs all the way to Tangier Island which is ~ten miles away. Dr. Greg mentioned doing a trip someday paddling from Crisfield to Smith Island and then from Smith Island to Tangier. Sounds like something I'd be up to.
I spotted several dowitchers.
Here we are at our second stop and turnaround point. Facing the camera is Jennifer.
We had a chance to eat, hydrate, and stretch our legs before heading back. With the breeze and dark skies, it was a little cold. I was not smart enough to pack extra clothes so I just kept moving. This suited me fine since I like to explore beaches. I found some angel wing shells. They are beautiful but fragile.
I found a 7.75-inch wide, heavy bone. It wasn't until I got home that I figured out what it was. Looking at the back side gave me the clue I needed. If you observe closely, you can see the lines of a turtle shell pattern.

There were lots of turtles in the water, specifically terrapins. But on land we saw none. I did, however, find the remains of turtle egg shells.
Back on the water, we paddled north, with the wind to our backs. Mike, my roommate, let the wind do the work for him.
Back at Tylerton, the folks not paddling the next day removed their kayaks from the water at one of the ramps on the west side. The rest of us would take our boats out from where we launched. While waiting, I spotted this dragonfly caught in a spider's web under the pier.
I kayaked 8.9 miles that day.

Exploring Tylerton, I saw the town's United Methodist Church. I was told that everyone who resides at Smith Island is Methodist. There are three churches (all Methodist) and they space out their services so one pastor can preach at them all.
Dr. Greg told us about a really great artist that we should meet. Walking around town, I saw some people and asked where I could find this talented individual. Mary Ada spoke up and told me she would take me to him. So I hopped on her golf cart and she gave me a ride over.

The artist's name is Dennis. He primarily does acrylic paintings but has also done some water colors. He is not from the island but loves it there. His paintings are Smith Island-themed. You can see his work at Smith Island Art.

We ended the day at Duke's house, eating crab cakes and Smith Island cake, both made by Mary Ada. She makes hers with eight layers.
Mary Ada's was perhaps the finest crab cake I ever had. Definitely the real deal.

I was up early to get packed up and ready for a 0800 launch. Yesterday was a little taxing for some so today it would just be five of us. We need to have our boats, gear, and ourselves loaded on the power boat to Crisfield by 1230 so Greg was on a schedule without much room for error.

The plan was to paddle to the Martin National Wildlife Refuge in a counterclockwise direction.

It was a sunny day, with calm wind, and not too hot. Perfect paddling weather. Making our way out of Tylerton, I had a nice view of the crabbing boats lined up at the pier.
From a distance, I thought I saw an osprey on a duck blind but as we got closer, we determined it was a not fully mature bald eagle.
We passed a great egret in the shallows.
Somewhere around here, we entered the Martin National Wildlife Refuge.

I spotted a snowy egret.
We did a muddy portage to save some miles. Walking through the mud, we sank down to our knees.
Here's Virginia in her Delta kayak. She was having a really good time.
I paddled eight miles that day.

We staged our boats and gear on the west pier.
Here's Jessica, Christos, and Mike ready to head back to Crisfield. Note how we carefully placed our kayaks on each side of Captain Larry's wheelhouse. A few are loaded up top.
Up top is Jessica and Dr. Greg with me on the side.
I had a couple last views of the bird life at Tylerton.

The trip was a huge success, thanks to Dr. Greg. Overall, we had good weather. I really enjoyed meeting and paddling with the folks in our group. The birding was fantastic.

If you want to see Smith Island, I think this is the way to do it. Had I arrived knowing nothing about the place, I don't think I would have been all that impressed. But Greg really informed us about a lot which developed our appreciation of the area. There is a lot of history, culture, and wildlife. For someone like me that really likes learning about Maryland history, this is a very special place and I'm very glad I got to participate in this trip with such great people.